The country's spine is made of volcanoes and mountain ranges, with 7 provinces along the territory; those being San José, Alajuela, Heredia, Cartago, Guanacaste, Puntarenas and Limón. We have divided this land in 6 different regions to help you better understand and select the part of the country you want to go to.

 

GEOGRAPHY OF COSTA RICA

The mountain ranges in the country that extends from the northern border with Nicaragua all the way across Panama are part of the larger Andean Sierra Madre found in South America. The Costa Rican ridge is divided into four main ranges Cordillera of Guanacaste, Cordillera Central, Cordillera of Tilarán and the

Cordillera of Talamanca. Costa Rica has a productive economic area of 200 nautical miles (370,00 kilometers) and a territorial sea of 12 nautical miles (22,00 kilometers).

Costa Rica 's highest peak is called the Cerro Chirripó which stands at a 3820 meter elevation above level of sea. The country's territory is formed by a series of ridges and valleys being the Central Valley the main one, which is where the province capital cities of San Jose, Heredia and Cartago are located.

Due to its geological structure Costa Rica features many mountains, volcanoes and hills; geological activity is mainly caused by two tectonic plates: The Cocos plate and the Caribbean plate. Their normal collision causes frequent tremors and earthquakes, but only very few of them have ever caused any considerable damage or are even sensed by the population.
There are around 60 dormant volcanoes, although only seven of them are considered active, some of these are national parks with many facilities to the tourist, such as the Poás, Irazú, Arenal and Rincón de la Vieja.

The spine of the country creates many mayor river systems.

Rivers draining into the Caribbean include:

- Rio Colorado

- Rio Pacuare

- Rio Parismina

- Rio Reventazón

- Rio Sixaola

Rivers draining into the Pacific include:

- Rio Abangares

- Rio Guacimal

- Rio Serge

- Rio Tempisque

- Rio Térraba

At the eastern side of the country, the Rio San Juan emerging from the Nicaragua Lake forms part of the border with Costa Rica's northern neighbor.

Areas under protection

All national parks, refuges and any kind of protected areas are managed by MINAE which stands for Ministerio de Ambiente y Energía. As a response to the new policies and conservation strategies of MINAE, eleven conservation areas were established to oversee and supervise Costa Rica's protected lands. These conservation areas are known as Sistema Nacional de Areas de Conservación (SINAC).

 

Caño Negro National Park:

This refuge made of nearly 10,000 hectares is a vital wintering site for the migrant waterfowl; also it is a year-round habitat for many resident wetland species. Between October and April is when most of the migrant species stay at the refuge, creating a stunning spectacle that even non-birdwatchers are marveled by. Some of the birds that can be commonly seen are: Wood Stork, White Ibis, Glossy Ibis, Black-necked Stilt, Anhinga, Blue-Winged Teal, Northern Shoveler, American Widgeon, Snail Kite and Black-bellied Whistling Duck. One of the species that most birdwatchers are thrilled to see here is the Nicaraguan Grakle, since it is only found in marshy areas just south of Lake Nicaragua.

During the winter resident's stay, the habitat at Caño Negro goes trough a huge seasonal change. With the accumulated water from the rainy season, a shallow lake is formed covering some 80ha. During the dry season months from December to March the lake dries up. By April the only remain of it is the main channel of the Rio Frio ( Cold River).

 

Arenal National Park:

Definitely one of Costa Rica's best known tourist attractions, the highly eruptive Arenal Volcano, the centerpiece of this National Park created in October of 1994. Not only is since then one of the most active volcanoes in the world part of the national park system, but also this now under park service protection area mothers the rivers that flow into lake Arenal, the country's man made main source of hydroelectric power.

The imposing Arenal Volcano rises as an almost perfect conical form just out of the San Carlos plains. With periodic eruptions of ash and melted rock causing a thundering sonic blasts that will last with you a lifetime and they become even more spectacular after dark. After sunset when it's dark the glowing red igneous rocks ejected with each eruption trace fiery trails in the night sky before extinguishing on the steep slopes down the crater.

Columns of lava also flow down the sides of the volcano and pieces of the moving sections continually break off under the weight of new flows pushing down from above. At night, these falling pieces are visible as chunks of rolling red rocks, as an addition to the natural fireworks display between the frequent eruptions.

The Arenal rises another 1000 from the 600,00 meters elevation site where visitors are aloud to approach atop a lava flow from the 1968 eruption, being it's summit a total 5.357,61 feet high and even tough the peak is located a 2,99 kilometers distance from there it still feels like the peak is right in front of your face.

Not much vegetation or wildlife is to be found at the immediate area surrounding the viewing spot for the effects of the 1968 eruption are slowly being overcome. However, this area offers a one of a kind opportunity to observe the early stages of lava flow colonization due to a few plant species have adapted to the rough conditions. Further down this site there are other areas that were not directly affected and are inhabited by a wider variety of wildlife in these densely forested sections, which include the dormant crater of the Chato Volcano southeast of Arenal.

 

Poás Volcano National Park:

As many other volcanoes in the Central Volcanic Cordillera, the sight of the Poás Volcano from the Central Valley leaves no space for doubt as of it's fierce force and hidden fury below it's surface. Once you stand at the summit on the crater's rim it's easier to understand the forces that have shaped this portion of the planet.

Being known as one of the widest in the world, the 1.5 kilometer diameter active crater offers a chance to see the 300-meter deep crater, where is always expected to see some sort of activity such as fumaroles or bubbling emissions at the surface of the small rain-filled lake all the way up to actual geyser-type eruptions, all of this frequently changing. During the early 1990´s there was so much geyser activity that it caused the lake to lose its water by the end of the dry season (April-May); as a result of this an increase on gaseous emanations forced the park to be closed on a few occasions.

Down the left of the crater you will see the deleterious effects of the volcanic gases that cause a localized form of acid rain. The vegetation is brown and dying for several miles down the slope of the crater. On days that are exceptionally clear you are able to see the top of the Arenal volcano at a 60km. distance by overlooking at this direction. If you stare that way for an enough amount of time you could see the cloud of ash that is caused by an eruption.

Some meters back down the trail from the active crater another 1.5km trail leads you to Lake Botos, a quite densely forested dormant crater that is filled with rain water. A portion of this trail takes you to an eerie-looking portion of the park that is covered by stunted forest, where the small trees have gnarled and twisted trunks and branches from exposure to harsh weather conditions at these kinds of highly elevated exposed areas.

Near the Lake Botos the highest point of the park is located at a 2,704 meter altitude.

At such altitude there isn't a great amount of wildlife, however there is commonly bird activity. Some of the species that can be seen here are the Black-and-yellow Silky- Flycatcher, the Black-billed Nightingale-Thrush, Mountain Eleania, Slaty Flowerpiercer, Sooty-capped Bush-Tanager and the Fiery-throated Hummingbird.

As a result of its high visitation, the National Park Service has selected Poás as a model park. One of the benefits of this are the amenities at the visitor's Center which offers a solid explanation of volcanic activity and the ancient natural history of Poás trough a number of entertaining and informative displays.

 

Juan Castro Blanco National Park:

This park was created to protect the cloud forest habitat and important watershed atop the westernmost peaks of the Central Volcanic Cordillera. It was recently declared in 1992.

Although no eruptions have been documented recently it is obvious that the park has volcanic origins by just looking at the numerous hot springs located at its northern flank. The three highest summits are: Porvenir Volcano (2,267 meters), Platanar Volcano (2,183 meters), and Viejo Volcano (2,060 meters).

The government has not yet financed the purchase of the private property affected by the declaration of this park, so unfortunately there are no facilities for visitors.

 

Irazú Volcano National Park:

Standing at 3.342,00 meters above sea level the Irazú volcano is the highest point in the Central Volcanic Cordillera. The gently sloping southern flank with its patchwork pattern of potatoes, cabbages and other vegetable crops which is replaced by dairy farms at higher altitudes, undercover the violent past of this sleeping tough active past of this giant that overlooks the city of Cartago.

As one gets closer to the summit the destructive power of volcanism becomes evident as you spot scorched dead tree trunks that are still standing. At the top of Irazú there are several deep craters forming this moon-like land. As a result of the high elevation the vegetation that remains is not very tall and in addition the vegetation is kept from growing rater sparsely by the periodic eruptions. Some of the few species of birds adapted to this region are the aptly named Volcano Hummingbird and Volcano Junco.

As with any active volcano, the level and type of activity varies from time to time, often abruptly. Since the last active period, between August of 1962 and March of 1965, Irazú´s main crater has only emitted fumarole activity, but then again this condition can change at any time.

 

Tapantí National Park:

Located south from Orosí Valley and north of Cerro de la Muerte you will find this park with elevations that vary ranging from middle to upper high forests. Even tough it was originally established as a National Wildlife Refuge, Tapantí National Park is not an easy place to see mammals, although many species live in the area. Observation of birds, butterflies and flora will definitely prove to be a more approachable goal.

At these elevations birds often forage in flocks containing a number of species, the most common ones being the Three-striped Warbler and the Common Bush-Tanager, but an experienced bird watcher will surely have a chance to spot some other species such as the Spangle-cheeked Tanager, Redheaded Barbet, Spotted Wood creeper and the Spotted Barbtail. Several hummingbird species are also quite active around clumps of flowering epiphytes.

The exuberant variety of epiphytes (plants that grow on the trunks and branches of trees) that are found on this humid environment will delight any plant enthusiast. The Orchids are particularly very diverse and abundant at Tapantí and a careful search will most likely result in finding numerous species in bloom at any given time.

 

Guayabo National Monument:

Surely Costa Rica's premier archaeological site. Although not on a par with the large-scale pre-Columbian architecture found at some other parts of the Americas, Guayabo indeed offers an unforgettable taste into the lives of the people who once populated the region.

The park offers a peaceful jungle-covered site to observe the raised mounds of earth supported around their bases by large rounded stones that are interconnected by cobblestone walkways. It is assumed that edifications once crowned these mounds, but due to the fact that they were build of perishable materials, no evidence of them remains.

Other preserved features are a still-functioning aqueduct system, burial sites and several petroglyphs. Numbers of high quality samples of pottery, gold and stonework on display at the national museum are originally from this place. Archaeologists estimate that half of the village area still remains buried.

Because of the reduced amount of protected land, only 217,00 hectares , chances of seeing wildlife is limited. Some of the animals that might be seen at Guayabo are the Nine-banded Armadillo, Montezuma Oropendola, Central American Coral snake and the Blue Morpho Butterfly. A variety of orchids also grow at trees in the forested portions of the monument land site.

 

Isla Bolaños Biological Reserve:

This 14-hectare island and its surrounding marine environment were added to the country's wildlife refuge system in 1981, mainly to protect one of the few nesting sites for Brown Pelicans and marvelous Frigate birds in Costa Rica. Around 200 pairs of pelicans nest in treetops on the northern part of the island, while about half as many frigate birds use similar nest sites on the island's southern cliffs. Isla Bolaños is also the only place in Costa Rica where American Oystercatchers have been found nesting. The waters of the Pacific around the island are crystal blue and hold abundant sea life.

 

Santa Rosa National Park:

This was one of the first national parks in Costa Rica and part of its importance lays on its historical background, as well as its geological and ecological richness. The old Hacienda buildings have been preserved as a cultural and historical museum, mainly to commemorate the Battle of Santa Rosa in 1856.

The rocky formations that form the western tip of the park rank among the oldest in Costa Rica, emerging back at the Cretaceous period around 130 million years ago. The forested parts of the park hold a considerably large amount of the precious little area of tropical dry forest that remains in Central America .

Other than providing habitat to the many plants and animals that live on dry forest conditions, Santa Rosa preserves two important sea turtle nesting beaches in Costa Rica: Naranjo and Nancite. This last one is one of two beaches in Costa Rica (the other being Ostional) where Pacific Ridley Sea Turtles come ashore each year in large concentrations to lay their eggs.

Some of the most common species that inhabit this 49,51 hectares National Park are: Roadside Hawks, Orange-fronted Parakeets, White-throated Magpie-Jays, White-throated Capuchin Monkeys, Long-tongued Bats (that roost in the historic buildings) and White-tailed Deer.

The flora in most of the park is known for being deciduous and many plant species remain leafless for much of the dry season to save precious moisture. Another characteristic of the dry forest vegetation is the high amount of plants that feature thorns or spines. The prevalence of this form of mechanical protection had led tropical biologist Dr. Daniel Janzen to conclude that this defense evolved ages ago for this species to protect against enormous herbivores such as Giant Ground Sloths and Mastodons that once walked in this region. This theory being true or not, do beware of what you touch or step on at the tropical dry forest!

 

Guanacaste National Park:

Established in 1989, Guanacaste National Park was founded mainly to form a biological corridor to interconnect Santa Rosa National Park whit high elevation cloud forest and Caribbean slope rain forest. The 70,00 hectares of National Park extend from Santa Rosa's border with the Pan-American Highway northeastward to the summits of Orosi and Cacao Volcanoes and across the Continental Divide onto the Caribbean slopes of these volcanoes.

This extension of Santa Rosa is hoped to provide enough protected land to guarantee the future of wide-ranging species like the Jaguar and Mountain Lion, while at the same time allowing a number of species of birds and insects that make local seasonal migrations between the dry forest and the evergreen cloud and rain forest to continue their annual movements without threat of continued loss of habitat.

 

Rincón de la Vieja National Park

At the hearth of Guanacaste Cordillera lies Rincón de la Vieja National Park, favorite destination of those few lucky enough to have seen most of the parks in the system. Tops of this park include six different life zones, abundant wildlife, world-class waterfalls, impressive geothermal sites and an active volcano.

One of the most distinctive and commonly observed parts of this park is an area named Las Pailas, a 50 hectare sector on the south slope of the volcano with several types of geothermal activity.

Bubbling, boiling hot mud springs, sulfur springs, steam vents and fumaroles all blending together in this rather small area at the very base of the volcano.

For the physically fit, a hike from Las Pailas ranger station to the volcano's summit will be a challenging field day. The trail begins at an amazing portion of tropical moist forest where the most striking trees are strangler figs seen in every phase of the process of enveloping the doomed host tree. As the trail goes on it hits premontane wet forest and the trees get smaller and are covered with epiphytic vegetation.

The remaining hike is estimated to last around one and a half hour and it covers a steep, exposed rock area that evidences past eruptions. This part of the climb to the summit is signaled because is usually covered in clouds.

 

Barra Honda National Park:

Although this park protects 2,295hectares; the main reason for it to exist lays below the surface, being that it is the only park in the county created to protect caves.

As of today, 19 different caves have been discovered in the limestone ridge that forms the Barra Honda complex. The entrances to these caves are all vertical; therefore, ropes and climbing equipments are a must for those who intend to explore this underground world. Cave depths range from 21 to 240,00 meters.

Other than the stalactites and stalagmites, the various geological formations inside the caves have been the prime material to these curious descriptive names: soda straws, cave grapes, curtains, terraces, pearls, flowers, needles and…fried eggs! Compared to many other caves with horizontal entrances, the geological structures of Barra Honda are in excellent condition as a result to the difficulty of access.

The natural vegetation that used to cover most of the park is unfortunately not at its best condition, mainly as a result of deforestation and uncontrolled cattle ranching, and there is not a well-marked system of trails to the few decent patches of forest in the park.

 

Palo Verde National Park & Dr. Rafael Lucas Rodríguez Caballero National Wildlife Refuge:

Originally individually managed national park and national wildlife refuge these two blended together into a large conservation unit that also includes the nearby Lomas Barbudal Biological Reserve. The Palo Verde portion covers 13,06 ha. of various habitats in the lower Tempisque River flow. Out of the mangrove forests, dry forests, evergreen forests, old pasture land and other habitats protected at this park, the habitat that was key to the creation of this park and refuge lands is the wide marsh area that mothers an important wintering ground to many species of migrant North American waterfowls, as well as resident tropical species such as the Jaribu, the largest stork in the Americas.

The marshes are filled up with rain and occasional flood water throughout the wet season. When the dry season commences and progresses, the wet lands are reduces to scattered ponds and puddles where large amounts of waterfowl gather together. Tentatively the most common species are the resident Black-bellied Whistling-Ducks and Northern Jacanas.

Palo Verde also offers important nesting sites for numerous native species of birds, the most noticeable is a small mangrove island in the middle of the Tempisque River called Isla Pájaros or bird Island (which is different from another Isla Pájaros located at the Nicoya Gulf itself near Punta Morales). Black-crowned Night-Herons, Great Egrets, Anhingas, Wood Storks, Roseate Spoonbills and Cattle Egrets all use this island for breeding.

During the dry season, when many of the forest trees are leafless and water is not precisely abundant, wildlife is commonly seen easily, especially if you spot a water source and wait on in quietly for animals to go for a sip. Easily seen animals at Palo Verde include Collared Peccaries, White-throated Capuchin Monkeys, Howler Monkeys, White-nosed Coatis, White-tailed deer, and Variegated Squirrels. During the wet season is easy to find mosquitoes.

 

Lomas Barbudal Biological Reserve:

Costa Rica had developed many preserving areas with specific purposes to protect nestling beaches for turtles, marshlands for birds and nesting sites for seabirds, volcanoes, coral reefs and so on and on. But if Lomas de Barbudal was intended to protect something specifically then it would be insects.

This 2,279ha dry forest with forest habitats and evergreen forest is estimated to hold some 240 species of bees, so it's only easy to figure out how many types of beetles, butterflies and flies inhabit this relatively small reserve.

But if you're not much into insects Lomas Barbudal is an excellent bird watching spot for tropical dry forest species such as the Long-tailed Manakin, Turquoise-browed Motmot, Stub-tailed Spadebill, Olive Sparrow and Black-headed Trogon.

During the dry season, mammals can usually be found enjoying the cool shade of the evergreen forest along the Cabuyo River.

Mantled Howler Monkeys, White-throated Capuchin Monkeys, Variegated Squirrels, Banded Anteaters and Tayras are some of the species that can be seen.

After the forests by the hills go brown and lose their leafs during the dry season the eye can feast with the spectacle of flowering trees that cover the landscape- and provide pollen and nectar to the bees!

 

Las Baulas Marine National Park :

Also a new addition to Costa Rica's National Park system, Las Baulas was created to preserve two important nesting beaches for the Giant Leatherback Sea Turtle, as well as offshore areas where these large marine reptiles spend their days during the breeding season.

Baulas is the name for Leatherback turtles in Costa Rica, they're the largest of the world's seven species of sea turtles and can weight up to 771,62 lbs. and average more than a meter and a half in length. For some, seeing these giants as they approach the beach on an ancient tropical tradition is a memory that lasts a lifetime, although some other find the two hour process a bit too much to go through.

In Costa Rica, this species can be found nesting at various beaches on both slopes, but the two more densely populated beaches are Playa Grande and Playa Langosta, both next to Tamarindo Beach, and making up the Las Baulas National Park.

The nesting season at Las Baulas extends from October through February. When away from their breeding sites, leatherbacks spend their lives meandering throughout the world's oceans searching for their main food, jellyfish.

 

Tamarindo National Wildlife Refuge:

This small refuge was created to protect a mangrove swamp that stands out for having no freshwater input during nearly half the year. Because of the strong dry season in this coastal region on the north part of the Guanacaste province, the creeks that water the estuary during the rainy months totally dry up after the last drop of rain has fallen.

At this park five species of mangroves can be found, mangroves are trees that are not related botanically and have developed ways to tolerate life in a flooded environment with soils so waterlogged that oxygen cannot be easily obtained through the underground roots, this habitats provide a very important spawning site for plenty of fish and other sea species.

A wide variety of birds can also be found, many of them seasonal species from North America. One of the species that stands out here is the Lesser Nighthawk (which is related to the Whip-poor-will), which sleeps trough the day on low branches in the mangrove, its mottled gray and brown feathers helping it to camouflage quite well with the surroundings.

The difference between high and low tide in Costa Rica's Pacific coast is about two and a half meter, and when the tide is low you can watch the protruding vertical roots of the Black Mangrove. These short projections stick up out of the mud to help aerate the plants. During the dry season one can also observe this species of mangrove exuding particles of salt off the surface of its leaves, tough they are not visible in the rainy season for the salts are washed off.

Some of the other types of wildlife that one can see from a boat at the mangroves are the Lineated Basilisk Lizard, Spectacled Caimans, Raccoons, White-throated Capuchin Monkeys and Howler Monkeys.

 

Ostional National Wildlife Refuge:

This refuge was created to protect a major nesting beach for Pacific Ridley Sea Turtles and also the waters offshore from the beach.

Oftentimes during the year, female turtles populate the beach so widely that the beach looks like a portion of rocky coastline. Locals refer to this massive nesting periods as "arribadas" (Spanish for arrivals). These events usually last from two to eight days, while most of the nesting takes place at night.

Locals also believe that arribadas will take place three of four nights after the full moon, which has some true to it in months when relatively small numbers turtles nest, although throughout the peak nesting season from July to November when over 100,000 nests may occur during a single arribada, any correlation with phases of the moon or the tides is totally dismissed. Therefore, what causes the mass nesting is yet to be deciphered.

One scientific theory is that this species nests so abundantly strategically to survive against predators, because with such large number of eggs laid is so very few nights (over a million during a massive arribada), it is rather unlikely that the local predators could eat them all. This way, when the surviving eggs hatch and the newborn turtles make their stumbled way down the beach to the ocean, while thousands of them do so at the same time, then surely some will ditch the various hungry predators that await them, those ranging from crabs to coyotes.

 

Braulio Carrillo National Park (Barva Volcano Sector)

Barva volcano has been dormant for thousands of years now, but it is more attractive than its neighboring Volcanoes in the Central Volcanic range, the Poás and Irazú, in several ways. Due to its inactivity, exuberant highland forest has covered its misty summit, and therefore, the abundance of wildlife is far more noticeable here than at the two aforementioned volcanoes. Standing at 9.534,12 feet above level of sea at its summit, Barva is 656,17 feet higher than Poás, although it doesn't reach the altitude of the Irazú which is 11.223,75 feet high.

A fairly flat 1.5 km trail leads the way from the ranger station at the entrance to this sector of Braulio Carrilo National Park to the Laguna Barva, a rainwater filled lake formed inside a long-inactive crater. Another more intense trail for those better prepared hikers goes all the way down from the top of the volcano to a mere 35,00 meters above level of sea at La Selva Biological Station, so you will descend almost 3.000,00 meters in 60,00 kilometers of trail. This hike lasts approximately four days and serious planning and prior permission from the Park's administration are to be taken into consideration.

Typically found bird species that are found at this Park are the Long-tailed Silky-Flycatcher, Flame-throated Warbler, Golden-browed Chlorophonia and the magnificent Quetzal.

 

Braulio Carrillo National Park (Zurquí sector)

This is one of Costa Rica's largest national parks, consisting of 44,10 hectares of virgin rain forest. Four provinces hold portions of this park, although most visitors access it from the highway between San José and Limón. The entrance is only 30 minutes away from San José downtown, but it feels like you're entering a totally different world, on endless verdure and frequent mists and rain showers.

While you keep driving trough the highway you will pass from a 1.500,00 meters elevation to less than 500,00 meters above sea level on the Caribbean side of the Barva Volcano slope. Even tough is not noticeable to the average visitor, there is a fairly total change of flora and fauna between the two ends of this 1.000,00 meters altitude change. There are trails at the upper and lower ranger stations that allow you to enter the rain forest, but you must be careful as they have some steep and slippery sections. Also, caution should be accounted if you plan to make a stop along the highway other than at the ranger stations, for unfortunately there have been several cases during the past few years of tourists being robbed at gunpoint while trying to use the trails where there is no park service vigilance.

When crossing the Rio Sucio (literally dirty river) bridge you must look on your right if you are traveling from San José towards Limón, for there is where the Rio Sucio melds with the Hondura coming from the right. Unless it has been raining very heavily, the difference between these two streams is awesome, because the Hondura carries crystal- clear mountain water, while the Sucio can vary from grayish to reddish-orange due to its origins on the ash-covered upper slopes of Irazú Volcano.

Some of the more than 400 species of birds than can be found here, rather spectacular for bird-watching enthusiasts, are: Latticed-tailed Trogon, Yellow-eared Toucanet, Black-crowned Antpitta, Brown-billed Scythebill, Sharpbill, Snowcap and Bare-necked Umbrellabird. The mammals are equally diverse, but not easily spotted. Some of the more common species are: Northern Tamandua, White-throated Capuchin, White-nosed coati, and Deppe´s Squirrel.

 

Barra del Colorado National Wildlife Refuge:

This refuge of 92,00 hectares is quite similar both geologically and ecologically to Tortuguero National Park, with which it practically merges on the southern boundary. The San Juan River forms the northern boundary, which is also the border with Nicaragua, and runs from its mouth on the Caribbean coast, upriver to just east of the mouth of the Sarapiquí River.

This area fell under protection status just recently, and unfortunately a considerable amount of the eastern land had already been cleared for farming. A boat ride along the San Juan River shows the dramatic difference in regional land use between the two countries. Much of the Costa Rican side is deforested right to the river bank, while the Nicaraguan side is an impenetrable wall of jungle.

The portions of the refuge closer to the coast are more densely forested, but still small farms and clearings can be seen. A large amount of this sector is characterized for its swampy soil that is easily flooded during the heavy rain season and is not at all adaptable for agricultural purposes.

A labyrinth of creeks and lagoons provided abundant freshwater habitat for myriad creatures ranging from tiny shrimp that live among the floating mats of water hyacinth to the large bull sharks that seasonally migrate into the area and all the way to Lake Nicaragua from the Caribbean Sea. Among the species the also make annual forays into the freshwater system one can find the Tarpon and Snook, which make the village of Barra del Colorado a paradise for those sport fishermen looking to set up a world-record catch or simply enjoy a day of good fishing.

As in Tortuguero, wildlife viewing from a boat can end up in spotting Northern Jacanas, Keel-billed Toucans, Laughing Falcons, Great Green Macaws, Three-toed Sloths, Mantled Howler Monkeys and Central American Spider Monkeys, as well as an abundant diversity of other mammals, birds, reptiles, insects, and of course lush tropical vegetation.

 

Tortuguero National Park:

This park was created in 1970 and it now protects one of the region's most important and one of a kind natural treasures: a 22,00 kilometers portion of shoreline that works as the main nesting site of the western half of the Caribbean Sea for the Atlantic Green Sea Turtle. The look of this giant reptiles emerging from the tropical sea carrying their 100+ kg bodies ashore to lay their eggs at night is a remarkable experience. The nesting season for the green turtles goes from July to October.

A species that's even larger, the Leatherback Sea Turtle, also nests on these beaches from February to April, but most of their nesting is takes place in the southern side of the park, far from the actual village of Tortuguero.

Tortuguero not only protects this vital strip of coastline but also an 46,82 acres of forested habitat and a large network of freshwater creeks and lagoons. These aquatic habitat is home to 7 species of river turtles, as well as Southern River Otters, Spectacled Caimans, the scarce and rarely seen West Indian Manatee, the eerie looking Alligator Gar- a fish that has remained barely changed in appearance sine prehistoric times- and several other fish species such as Atlantic Snook and Atlantic Tarpon which brings anxious anglers to this region from all corners of the planet.

Sailing trough the peaceful waters in a small boat is a wonderful and lasting memory and a chance to see wildlife in a way you won't find anywhere else. And even if the tropical rain shower makes it hard to see the surroundings, the experience itself, along with the majestic jungle sounds, makes this a must for any visitor.

In 1994, the Caribbean Conservation Corporation opened up a Visitors Center Building next the town of Tortuguero, and the exhibits on display are quite well done and very informative.

 

Cahuita National Park:

Even tough Costa Rica has hundreds of miles of tropical coastline it doesn't offer many coral reef development. Cahuita National Park was created in 1970 to withhold one of the few coral reefs areas in the region, and also became Costa Rica's first marine national park (some 600 of the 1,067 hectares protected areas of the park are underwater).

There isn't much live coral reef left in Cahuita, however a diverse variety of marine life can be seen easily without even having to use snorkeling equipment. Be careful tough, you don't want to step into any of the abundant black spiny sea urchins while feasting your eyes with the colorful fish and unique coral formations, for they are very painful.

The rather small area of dry land that the park has is quite swampy and it doesn't have trails passing by it. The only trail goes along the beach from the village of Cahuita to the ranger station at Puerto Vargas on the opposite site of Cahuita point (around 7 kilometers). Crabs, lizards, monkeys, sloths and several types of birds can be seen on the walk.

 

Gandoca-Manzanillo National Wildlife Refuge:

This refuge was recently added to the Costa Rican system of parks and refuges and is one more of an increasing number of protected areas that include sections of marine habitats. Its area is of 5,013 ha of territorial land and 4,436 ha of marine habitat. There is a five kilometer stretch off the coast from the village of Manzanillo to the region known as Punta Mona that is populated by more live coral than what can be found on the reef at Cahuita up north, but the coral reefs at manzanillo are not as developed in form as the ones in Cahuita.

The refuge goes all the way down to the Sixaola River that borders with Panama. There are many other important habitats protected in the southeastern portion of the refuge, such as an estuary with a large population of red mangrove that houses Atlantic Tarpon, oysters and many other marine organisms as well as a sea turtle nesting beach.

It also features a 400 hectare area of swamp forest where the most common plant is the Ralphia Palm- a short-trunked palm tree that is distinctive in having the largest leaves in the world, some of the fronds can reach as much as 12 meters in length.

Hitoy-Cerere Biological Reserve:

This reserve is located on the interior of the Valle de la Estrella with an area of 9,154 hectares, it was created to protect a remote and mostly virgin portion of rain forest. There aren't many trails crossing this jungle and the ones that does are quite muddy. To explore the reserve is better to walk the river beds upstream, and by doing so you might also be able to observe the Sunbittern, a bird that is common to tropical streams.

The drive to the reserve can become quite adventorous for it can last all day. Some of the species thhat can be found at the reserve in large numbers are Chestnut-headed Oropendolas and Montezuma Oropendolas; they use to nest in the valley from January to August. The birds here also tend to weave very easily the nest trees that are quite easy to see here.

 

Peñas Blancas National Wildlife refuge:

This park has recently been added to the National Wildlife Refuge system. Its area is of 2,400 ha, and it was created to protect the remaining stains of three different types of forests on the slopes of this area.The region is much deforested already, tough the lower parts of the refuge contain samples of tropical dry forest. As you go up to higher altitudes you will fing tropical moist forest, and as you get closer to the ridge, premontane moist forest which is known for having live oaks.

Due to the irruption of much of the original habitat, it is rather difficult to observe wildlife here, altough the more common mammal species can be found, and also a fair variety of birds, being that three different life zones merge in here. It is to take into consideration that no facilities for visitors exist at this refuge and the area is not properly marked.


Guayabo, Negritos and Pajaros Islands Biological Reserves:

These reserves consist of four different islands, all unpopulated, in the Gulf of Nicoya. They were added to the national park system in order to protect seabird nesting colonies and to prevent damage from tourism or other development. There are no park service facilities for visitors on any of the islands, nor are there trails to hike trough.

Due to the rocky steep-walled nature of these islands combined with the limited annual rainfall and harsh conditions they mainly maintain low, scrubby, dry forest-like plants.Still, signs of inhabitation can be found on Negritos Island, where remains of a wooden house and various introduced fruit trees can be found.Pre-Columbian pottery fragments were found on the same island, indicationg that they could once have been used as a cementery by the ancient inhabitants of the Nicoya Peninsula.

 

Curu National Wildlife Refuge:

With an area of only 84 ha. this coastal preserve is dramaticaly enlarged by being part of a 1,214 ha. farm surrounding the refuge which helps protect a larger amount of forested habitat as opposed to the characteristic farms/ranchs of the region. The environmantaly friendly awareness of the Schutz family, the owners of the farm, has kept natural habitat along the ridges, rivercourses and beach areas in the refuge and the farm.A number of trails go trough the refuge and good chances of seeing wildlife arise while hiking on them.

At this park is very easy to spot White-throated Capuchin Monkeys, some other species that can be found here are the White-nosed Coatis, Variegated Squirrels, Nine-banded Armadillos and White-tailed Deer. The bird species are typical of the tropical dry forest, some of the species that can be found here are: Canivet's Emeralds, Lesser Ground-Cuckoos, Thicket Tinamous, Rose-throated Becards, Turquoise-browed Motmots and Black-headed Trogons.

There are three beautiful beaches in the refuge, the largest one is Curu Beach, which is swimmer friendly and barely has any waves. Poza Colorada beach and Quesera beach are ideal for snorkeling thus they have some coral formations. There is a big shell midden on top of Quesera that is evidence of pre-Columbian habitation at this eastern end of the Nicoya Peninsula.

 

Cabo Blanco Absolute Nature Reserve:

Cabo Blanco Nature Reserve preceded the creation of the National Park Service administration. One may think that such name carries restrictions to visit but people is allowed inside one trail at the refuge.

There is more rain at the south end of the peninsula and the northern area receives less causing a difference in the look and ambience of the forest. One thing that makes this place so particular is that it has lots of tropical mist forest and evergreen areas and still many plant species typical of the tropical dry forest. One of these species is the spiny cedar, known as pochote, which can be identified by the sharp, conical spines protruding from the bark. The white "shaving brush" flowers are pollinated at night by bats.

Frequent animal species at the reserve are the Variegated Squirrel, White-throated Capuchin Monkey, White-nosed Coati, Central American, Agouti Mantled Howler Monkey and you might even be lucky enough to spot a Jaguarundi, the most diurnal cat among Costa Rica's 6 species of them. The diversity of habitats from rocky coastline to marsh to moist forest is home to a number of other species as well.

Although you will not see any living dinosaurs now, there is an area along the beach at the southern tip of the cape that has marine fossils in the exposed rocks dating back at least 20 million years. An extinct species of giant oyster is among the most frequent of the aforementioned fossils.

The name of the refuge comes from the offshore island of Cabo Blanco ( White Cape). The island itself is a vegetation less piece of rock that homes many roosting seabirds. Some 800 Brown Boobies live here, therefore, the largest colony of such birds in Costa Rica. The guano from such amount of birds causes the white color of the island visible from the coast.

 

Carara Biological Reserve:

With an area of 4,70 ha. Carara holds a one of a kind position at the transition lowlands. Even tough most of the plant life at the reserve is wet forest characteristically evergreen throughout the year some species lose their leaves during the dry season which demonstrates their likeliness to the drier weather northwards of the reserve.

Wildlife observation is by far the main attraction for most of Carara´s visitors, starring the beautiful Scarlet Macaw. These large, raucous members of the parrot family give an extra bright splash of primary colors to the mostly greenness of the rain forest, even tough some times they are hard to spot in a lush tree. Estimation claims some 150 specimens of these colorful birds feeding and nesting in the park. When not doing so, they hang out in mangroves several kilometers away.

This forest is also home to many other bird species that often travel together in mixed flocks that are a feast to the eye to birdwatchers. Some of the many species that can be found are the Lesser Greenlet, Chestnut-backed Antbird, Long-billed Gnatwren- Dot-winged Antwren and Black-hooded Antshrike.

The area of the reserve is not big enough to home larger cats, although it does have populations on Jaguarundi, Ocelot and Margay. White-nosed Coatis, Banded Anteaters, Central American Agoutis and Collared Peccaries may be seen at their natural habitats too.

Reptiles and amphibians are well represented in Carara; tough most species are cryptic or nocturnal making it hard to see them. Of the frogs, one species that is somewhat common and active during the day is the Harlequin Poison-dart Frog, a beautiful creature that is deeply black with fluorescent green markings. On sunny mornings, whiptail lizards are commonly found along the forest trails basking in flecks of light that touch the ground from the canopy above.

A surely unforgettable experience is standing by the Tarcoles river bridge before sunset and watching the Scarlet Macaws fly out to roost and into the sunset. Right before dawn, the birds make the return flight back to the reserve. As you stand at the bridge, look down at the river banks and you will likely see American Crocodiles. These ugly-looking reptiles are quite abundant along this portion of the river and some can measure almost 4,00 meters long.

 

Manuel Antonio National Park:

Manuel Antonio is one of the most visited of Costa Rica's national parks, which comes from its idyllic beaches, great wildlife watching opportunities, relative ease of access and excellent surrounding infrastructure; all the while its area is only 682,00 ha making it one of the country's smallest national parks.

Part of the park's scenic beauty is locate at Cathedral Point, a 72,00 meters high tip of land covered by rain forest. The point was formerly an island just off the mainland, but ocean currents caused the deposition of sand between the two and with time they got connected, forming a geological feature known as tombolo. The park's two most visited beaches, Manuel Antonio and Espadilla Sur, are the white sand arcs on both sides of the narrow portion of land that joins Cathedral point with the mainland.

As a result of the small size of the park plus the amount of visitors it receives, many of the wildlife that can still be found here is rather used to humans and will allow close approach, specially the White-throated Capuchin Monkeys, Central American Squirrel Monkeys, Brown-throated Three-toed Sloths, White-nosed Coatis, Central American Agoutis and Ctenosaur Lizards. One must acknowledge that these animals are still wild and should be respected and treated as such, enjoy the opportunity for a close look, but do not try to touch or feed them!.

Manuel Antonio is one of the best places in Costa Rica to see Brown-throated Three-toed Sloths. These impressive and slow moving animals feed exclusively from plants-as a result of their energy-low diet the have slow metabolism- and though they are known for feeding from over 100 species of trees and vines, they are more commonly seen feeding or resting in Cecropia trees.

Cecropias are common pioneer trees with large palmate leaves and ringed trunks that make them easy to recognize. Surely the abundance of Cecropias and other second growth species in the park causes the high population of sloths.

This park is also one of only two places in Costa Rica where the endangered Central American Squirrel Monkey is found. These are the smallest of the four monkey species in the country, and the only ones with a prehensile tail. They search actively for insects in large groups of 30 or more specimens.

Large colorful land crabs, birds and butterflies and more of the wide diversity of inhabitants that will joy your senses as you hike a trail trough the park. When the waters are clear enough, a diversity of sea life can be seen if you snorkel around the rocky ends of both beaches.

 

Marino-Ballena National Park:


This park is one of some recently created parks in order to preserve Costa Rica's varied, rich and still widely unstudied marine resources. Ballena means whale in Spanish and the offshore waters in this Park are used as wintering area by a number of species of migratory whales, such as Pilot Whales and Humpback Whales. The Spotted Dolphins are by far the most common marine mammals here, they are found year-round.

This is mainly a marine park and therefore no trails are found, but it offers diving and snorkeling around the small islands of Las Tres Hermanas and Ballena.

 

La Amistad International Park:

The name of this park (International Friendship Park) comes from the fact that it extends all the way into Panama. The Costa Rican side covers nearly half of the total area and is actually the largest protected area in the country with over 190,00 ha.

Most of the park's territory is in the province of Limon on the Caribbean side of the Talamanca Mountain Range. Nonetheless all three ranges stations that it has are located on the Pacific side of the ridge, for the Caribbean portion is very difficult to access. Taking a hike trough any of these trails will put you in the middle of a number of life zones as you go deeper into the hills. One of the main habitats found on the way up to the higher peaks is the lower mountainous wet forests, characterized by stunning oak forests where the Resplendent Quetzals dwell. The higher summits contain paramo-like vegetation. Unfortunately most of the trails crossing this area are not marked properly.

Due to the enormous size of the park and the diversity of life zones it holds, it is estimated that some 60% of the country's animal species are found here, ranging from termites to primates, the only catch is accessing the region.

 

Corcovado National Park:

The name Corcovado carries an almost worship-worthy significance among tropical biologists and naturalists. The renowned significance of this 41.788 ha portion of tropical rain forest doesn't come from nothing.

The forests located on the ridges and hillsides have a natural grandeur that recalls magnificence. Many of the largest trees that stand up to 50 meters or higher have huge buttresses surrounding their bases. After a close look a botanist could be able to recognize as many as 100 different species of trees at any portion of this habitat. Taking into consideration that variety of trees is easy to imagine all the different types of vines, epiphytes.

That great diversity of flora carries a comparable richness of fauna, all the way up from insects. Per instance, it has been estimated that some 10,000 insect species call Corcovado home, and researchers have found 42 species of frogs, 28 species of lizards, 123 species of butterflies and 16 species of hummingbirds. It is also acknowledged that all 6 species of felines that inhabit Costa Rica are found in this exuberant region, and so are the four local species of monkeys. Even more, Corcovado homes Costa Rica's largest concentrations of Scarlet Macaws and White-lipped Peccaries, both species in great danger of extinction because of hunting and trapping by man as well as for loss of habitat.

As a result of very little human intrusion at the park and also of its remoteness this rich biological diversity in Corcovado still exists.

For backpacking aficionados the Park offers a trail system (most of it crossing hoy, open beaches) between the six different ranger station where camping is aloud with prior permission.

 

Caño Island Biological Reserve:

This island (with an area of 300 ha) stands 30 meters above the surface of the Pacific and is easily seen from the western tip of the Osa Peninsula, about 15 kilometers away. The distance was no obstacle for the pre-Columbian communities that lived in the mainland and used the mainland as a burial site. On top of sailing with their dead ones across this portion of open water, they also transported large spherical stones to the graveyard located on the islands top. Some of these can still be seen today along with shreds of pottery and stone works left behind by careless tomb robbers during the latter half of the last century.

Caño Island has a variety of flora and fauna that is comparable to that of inland Corcovado´s inland. I.e. some 60 species of threes and 4 species of orchids are found in the island. Furthermore, there are 4 species each of frogs, lizards and snakes on the island, and several kinds of birds live on this paradise surrounded by Pacific waters.

The most noticeable feature of the island is its rich marine life. The sea portion of the reserve protects 5,500 ha. of marine life around the island. Bringing a mask, snorkel and fins is enough to enjoy the abundance and diversity of marine life just below the surface. The beach in front of the ranger station is swimmer-friendly and the water covered rocks on both sides are a sure bet for snorkeling activities with many splendorous fish as Rainbow Wrasses, Barber fish, Spotted Sharp-nosed Puffers, King Angelfish, Blue Parrotfish and Moorish Idols. You are also aloud to scuba-dive at a couple of spots.

The so called Jesus Christ Lizard can be found minding its business along the little stream that flows beside the ranger station. More adequately named Lineated Basilisk Lizards, these brownish creatures won't actually walk on water, but they can in fact run across the surface, reared up on their hind legs so that the flaps of skin on their long toes spread out and serves them as little paddles. Quite a show they throw.

 

Golfito National Wildlife Refuge:

This refuge is alike in many features to the much large and neighboring Corcovado, this small 1,309 ha refuge provides easy access to tropical rain forest. To get here all you have to do is walk in any direction from the town of Golfito.

This refuge is located very close to Golfito, and therefore many of the larger mammal species that are found in Corcovado do not longer inhabit the Golfito refuge. Nonetheless, the vegetation and smaller specimens of fauna are quite representative of the area's rain forests. The Black-cheeked Ant-Tanager is a small, darkish bird found only at this southern corner of the country and is not even found at bordering Panama.

Baird´s Trogon, Riverside Wren, Orange-collared Manakin, Golden-naped Woodpecker and the Yellow-billed Cotinga are among other species of bird species with limited distributions that are found in this region. Bird watching is very good along the seven kilometer gravel road that goes uphill to the radio towers on the ridge behind Golfito.

A tree species that botanist and foresters are attracted by here is the genus Carydaphnopsis which has been discovered growing in the refuge even tough is not found at any other place in the country. This avocado-related genus is represented in the Continent in the Peruvian Amazon. The remaining genus species is located in the Orient.

 

Cocos Island National Park:


Remotely located in the Pacific Ocean, this 2,400 ha island of ancient volcanic rock rises to a height of 634 meters and is covered with lush rain forest. Being so isolated, only a handful of flora and fauna have been able to colonize the island over the centuries, and out of those that did, many have evolved into different forms from those that originally reached the island. As on islands elsewhere, this process has resulted in the creation of endemic species that are only found here.

Some of these endemic species of the island are 2 species of small lizards, 65 insects, several kinds of freshwater fishes, and three birds: the Cocos Finch, Cocos Flycatcher and the Cocos Cuckoo.

Unfortunately, one way that some species have reached remote islands is by man introducing them. In Cocos case, humans have been responsible for bringing goats, cats, pigs and white-tailed deer into the island, as well as plants like coffee and guava. These non-native species can often cause great damage to the existing flora and fauna, which has occurred on Cocos, mainly with the cats and pigs.

Cocos main asset for visitors is actually the amazing diving experience it offers to those that can get to the park. The visibility in the waters around the island is excellent and the amount and diversity of marine life is astonishing. The greatest adrenaline rush for most divers is seeing the huge groups of Hammerhead Sharks that are well known in these waters, but luckily they are not known for doing any harm to humans.

 

Chirripo National Park:

Home to the country's highest mountain, the Cerro Chirripo, looks of stunted alpine flora and bare rock is characteristic of this park. However, the 50,150 ha. that form the park in fact holds a variety of other impressive life zones and on the 10-hour hike to the shelters near the summit you will go from lower mountain rain forest and mountain rain forest to sub-alpine rain paramo. The strong humidity and lots of rain cause the exuberant growth of mosses, bromeliads and other epiphytes on the trunks and branches of the forest trees, of which the more common species are types of really amazing live oaks.

As you approach the tree line, the flora begins getting more and more stunted and once at an elevation of around 3,300 meters the paramo takes over. The paramo is a mixture if low-growing plants that have evolved a number of adaptations for dealing with the severe weather at the summit which is known for featuring strong ultraviolet radiation, sudden temperature changes, high rainfall and rather common frosts.

Even tough it sounds harsh, geological research found on the summit of the Chirripo massif proves that around 25,000 years ago the area was covered with glacial ice. This glacier formed during the last of the Great Ice ages and most of the northern hemisphere was covered by glaciers also, and actually this glacier was not connected to those up north. A number of U-shaped valleys, piles of rounded rocks and glacial lakes found here also prove the existence of the ice that once covered the region.


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